- 3D-Drucker anycubic i3 Mega
Informationen zum clubeigenen 3D-Drucker anycubic i3 Mega
- gigo, 9R, iggy, avanti, q3k
- Hardware, Software, CAM, 3D, 3D-Druck, anycubic, i3
anycubic i3 Mega
● Printing Technology: FDM (Fused Deposition Modeling) ● Layer Resolution: 0.05-0.3 mm ● Positioning Accuracy: X/Y 0.0125mm Z 0.002mm ● Supported Print Materials: PLA, ABS, HIPS, Wood ● Print Speed: 20~100mm/s(recommended speed 60%) ● Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 mm/1.75 mm ● Build Size: 210 x 210 x 205mm ● Operational Extruder Temperature: Max 260ºC ● Operational Print Bed Temperature: Max 110ºC ● Printer Dimensions: 405mm x 410mm x453mm ● Input Formats: .STL, .OBJ, .DAE, .AMF ● Ambient Operating Temperature: 8ºC - 40ºC ● Connectivity SD Card, USB Port (expert users only) ● Package Weight: 16.5kg
- Motion controller: marlin?
- Stepper controller: ?
- X: ?
- Y1: ?
- Y2: ?
- Z: ?
- E: ?
Konfiguration und Slicing-Profile für alle 3D-Drucker im Club: https://github.com/muccc/3d-print-profiles
Slic3r/PrusaSlicer Profile für anycubic i3 mega: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/muccc/3d-print-profiles/master/anycubic_i3_mega/slic3r/anycubic_i3_mega.ini
Use the SD card or print from a laptop using printrun/pronterface. TODO: octoprint setup.
- Don't leave the printer pre-heated for too long. The filament can cook and clog up the hot end. If you're not about to print something, don't preheat!
- If your print stuck too well to the bed, remove the magnetic layer and twist it to free the parts.
- It's okay to slightly misalign one of the Z axis carriages by accident. The printer will individually home the two axes before the next print.
- Sometimes the printer will misbehave. Or you might even accidentally break something. That's okay, just let someone know. Avoid the temptation to fix things if you're not very experienced with servicing 3d printers! We're speaking from experience here.
Maintenance and Care
Use the interface on the printer. Do not use abrasive filaments (eg. containing particles like carbon filled nylon). Avoid the cheapest eBay/Amazon/Lidl/Kaufland filament.
The filament should go through a teflon tube at the bottom of the spool holder. Otherwise the extruder might not be able to unspool it.
When storing filament, make sure to pull its end through a hole in the spool. Otherwise, you risk creating a knot in the filament that will be very annoying to find and fix.
Always restore to original condition: E3D V6 0.4mm brass nozzle.
This is not a trivial process. Things can go wrong. Read these instruction carefully, and look up online guides (keywords: E3D v6 nozzle change).
Due to thermal expansion, the process needs to be carried out at high temperature. You will not be able to unscrew a nozzle at room temperature without damaging the hot end. Screwing in the new nozzle at room temperature will cause it to become loose at high temperature.
- Heat the hot end to working temperature (200 degrees) and remove any filament.
- Heat the hotend to maximum (260 degrees)
- From this point onwards, work quickly. You'll be using metal tools and they _will_ get hot.
- Hold the heating block (aluminium cuboid into which nozzle is screwed) with a 16mm wrench. Be very careful around the heater cartridge and thermistor leads.
- Hold the nozzle with a 7mm wrench.
- Unlock the nozzle by unscrewing it counter-clockwise (normal thread) while applying a bit of counter-torque on the heater block. What you're trying to do is to prevent the heater block from unscrewing from the heat break above. Don't apply too much force, or you will snap the heat break.
- Fully remove the nozzle and screw in the new one.
- Use the 7mm wrench to tighten it (only ~2Nm of torque, ie. one finger worth of strength applied to the end of the small wrench), while holding the heater block and applying a bit of counter torque. Do not overtighten. Again, be careful to not snap the heat break.
- It's normal for the new nozzle to not be flush with the heater block. The nozzle will butt against the heatbreak within the heater block.
- Do a test print. There should be no leaks. If there are leaks, clean them up and try again.
My print won't stick to the bed!
Clean the bed with water and/or isopropyl alcohol. Make sure there's no grease/fingerprints/old prints. No need to use any glue/spray/tape for PLA and PETG.
The filament got stuck in the printer!
Immediate fix: Try to cool the hotend down, then heat it back up to 100 degrees, trying to remove the filament manually then.
Preventative: Make sure that the fan (on the blue duct) is running and sucking in ambient air from the outside, not hot air from within the hotend assembly. This is critical to maintain thermal balance within the E3D extruder.
If this keeps happening, the fan probably needs replacement.
- Magnetic bed / printing surface
- Aftermarket extruder (make/model: ???)
- E3D v6 hotend
- Octoprint (not yet configured)
- Set up Octoprint
- 2020-01-03 Drucker als Spende in teilweise demontiertem Zustand erhalten
- 2020-01-10 Reparatur: Tausch des Heatblock wegen vmtl. defektem Temperatursensor und unbefriedigender Verkabelung. Fertigung einer fehlenden Befestigungsplatte fürs Hotend im Keller. Betthaftung auf Ultrabase mit Klebestiftbeschichtung nicht ausreichend, auf blauem Krepptape konnten reproduzierbar Testobjekte gedruckt werden
- 2020-01-13 Reinigung des Glasbetts von Klebstroffresten, Montage eines magnetischen Druckbetts, Anpassung des Z-Stop und Bettleveling. Resultat: Zufriedenstellender Druck auf neuem Bett ohne zusätzliche Haftvermittler
- 2022-02-09 Mehrfach gebrochenes Filament entfernt, Anpassung des Z-Stop und Bettleveling
- 2022-08-31 q3k: Hotend replaced (apart from fan and heater cartridge) after meltdown.